Hiring a tradesperson for a garden build sight-unseen is a genuine leap of trust, and it's worth going in with a short checklist rather than taking a verbal assurance at face value. This guide sets out what to ask, what a proper quote should include, and where a build can go wrong if it doesn't account for local conditions.
What should a written quote include?
An itemised breakdown of materials, groundwork and labour, worked out from seeing your actual garden, not a verbal figure given over the phone.
A number given without a site visit can't account for ground condition, access, or which material you end up choosing, so a written, itemised quote is the baseline to expect, not an extra. Ask what happens if the ground turns out different once work starts, for example rotten joists found under an existing deck being replaced, and get that answer before you sign anything.
How should the frame be jointed and fixed?
Joints cut into the timber carry load through the wood itself; heavy-duty framing brackets and marine-grade stainless fixings hold that frame to its foundations.
A well-built frame usually needs both, and the thing to ask is what each is doing. Cut joints take time to make and they spread load through the timber rather than through the screws alone. Brackets and anchors are what tie the frame down to piers or ground screws, which matters most on a sloped or sandy site. A quote that mentions neither is worth a question.
Does the material choice matter for a Bournemouth garden specifically?
Yes. Salt-laden coastal wind and shaded, damp corners both affect how composite and timber decking hold up differently here than inland.
See the composite vs timber guide for the detail. The short version: composite tends to suit coastal or shaded gardens better; timber suits a natural look and a lower upfront build. Whichever you pick, standard steel fixings corrode faster near the coast than marine-grade stainless.
Do I need planning permission before I start?
Usually not for a deck no more than 30cm above the ground that sits behind the front wall of the house and keeps total building coverage under half the garden. Conservation areas, listed buildings and converted flats change the answer.
See the Bournemouth decking planning guide for the full rule set, including what changes inside one of BCP Council's 48 conservation areas. If a pergola's part of the plan too, the pergola planning permission guide covers the separate 2.5m boundary rule that applies to that.
What questions should I ask before hiring anyone?
| Question | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Will you give me a written, itemised quote after seeing the garden? | A verbal figure can't account for ground condition or access |
| How is the frame jointed, and what holds it to its foundations? | Cut joints spread load through the timber; brackets and anchors are what tie the frame down |
| What timber treatment class is used underground? | Use Class 4 (UC4) is the recognised standard for permanent ground or wet contact; anything less is at risk of rotting underground |
| Will one person be on site throughout, or a rotating team? | Continuity affects accountability if something needs revisiting |
| What happens if the ground turns out different once work starts? | Rotten joists or unexpected ground conditions should be addressed before they become a dispute |
| Does the quote account for my specific soil and slope? | A flat-garden footing approach doesn't necessarily work on a sloped or clay-heavy site |
What should make me pause before hiring someone?
A verbal-only price with no written breakdown, reluctance to explain the groundwork, and pressure for a large payment before any work starts are all worth treating as a pause, not a green flag.
None of these on their own is proof of a bad job, but a legitimate quote should hold up to being questioned on all of them. Staged payments tied to progress, rather than one large sum upfront, are a reasonable ask on any garden build.